Welsh 3000s (15 Peaks)

For over a year now Andy Ashton and I have been talking about running the Welsh 3000s: a challenge that takes in all 15 peaks in Wales over 3000ft. The entire route is around 30 miles including walk in and out but times are clocked from first to last peak. Walkers attempt to do this in under 24hrs. The record is 4hrs20mins. We were hoping for somewhere in-between, with the goal being to have a great day out in the hills rather than achieve the fastest time possible.

After reading up on possible route choices we decided to set out from Pen-y-Pass and do Crib Goch as our first peak. Purists will want to start on Yr Wyddfa but starting on Crib Goch makes for a superb route as you cut out the roads completely and you get to start the day by traversing Crib Goch's airy ridge rather than slogging up the Miner's Track.

On the evening before the run we drove up the valley to look at where we would drop off the hillside. The descent from Snowdon is all off-track and there are quite a few crags that you wouldn't want to run off so we wanted to get a feel for where we'd be going. This was well worth doing. Once we thought we had the route planned we headed to the Vaynol Arms for three pints of Dragon Ale before turning in for the night.

Snowdon

We arrived at Pen-y-Pass car park at 7am expecting to find it empty but were surprised to find only a handful of spaces left. Not as surprised as the fees for parking though and the phrase "Did you really say TEN QUID?" became a repeated joke throughout the day.

Pen y pass - Crib Goch

The start of the adventure: leaving Pen y pass

It was chilly but not too cold as we made our way up the hill. We passed a few groups of walkers all out for an early start. It started to drizzle as we reached the turn off for Crib Goch so away went the poles and out came the waterproof tops. The scramble up was great fun but the rock was slippery and numbingly cold and the temperature dropped the higher we climbed. As we reached the ridge it actually started to snow...in June!

Scrambling up to Grib Goch

On the Crib Goch ridge. The red ridge in the background
is the descent you would take if starting on Yr Wyddfa

Crib Goch ridge. The summit is the peak with the Quartz band.

On the summit of Crib Goch: peak #1 with
Yr Wyddfa in the background 

Carnedd Ugain

We dropped down from the summit of Crib Goch and easily traversed the first pinnacle. The second pinacle was a little trickier. There is a good line down to the left but this could be difficult to spot in poor visibility and straying from it would be dangerous. I should point out that Andy and I are both climbers and each have a reasonable head for heights.

Scrambling down to pass the second pinacle.
The line of the "path" traverses around the
ledge which is under the lake in this picture.

At the and of the traverse around the Second Pinacle

At the end of the ridge we met two runners doing the 3000s in the opposite direction. We had a brief chat and wished each other good luck before we each headed off into the clag. The clouds had quickly rolled in and it went from perfect to very poor visibility in a short space of time. Andy led the way on a path to the left of the ridge but we didn't seem to be gaining much height. Unsure about whether this path would actually take us to the summit we decided to scramble up a very loose gully. This was pretty unpleasant work. We couldn't see how far away from the top we were and the climb seemed to go on for ages (though probably because we were sliding back one step for each three forward). When we reached the skyline we realised that we were still a long way from the summit. We climbed the ridge and eventually a path (presumable the one we were on) joined us from the left.

Carnedd Ugain: Peak #2

Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)

We couldn't see much here but the route from Carnedd Ugain to Yr Wyddfa (the main summit of Snowdon) is very straightforward and for the first time in the day we actually started running! We climbed past the heaps of litter to reach the summit tower and chatted with a couple of friendly walkers about the views that we couldn't see.

The top of Snowdon. Wish you were here, Dave!

Nant Peris

We had both been a little apprehensive about this descent as we'd basically have to pick our own way down the hill and it looked pretty steep from the valley but after the exhilarating start to the day we were now really looking forward to exploring new ground.

We followed the Llanberis path, dropping down out of the clouds, until we came to where the path goes through the tunnel under the railway line. At that point we left the path and ran next to the railway line.

Dropping out of the clouds on the Llanberis path

Pleasant running next to the railway line. Our descent point
was mid-way along the grassy ridge beyond the large crag.

The second train of the day steamed past us at close quarters, rammed full of tourists taking the easy route to the top. When the train line pealed away to the left we continued running along the ridge until we came to a stile. We crossed the stile and worked our way steeply down to a faint path. The grass was very slippery and we each ended up on our backsides several times before the angle eased.

After a few stops to consider various options we arrived at the wall that crosses the hill at exactly the point where it meats a small drop off. In dry conditions this little cliff could easily be down climbed but I tested it out and it was pretty dangerous today. A fall wasn't going to kill but could well break bones. We worked our way to the right and had to do some comedy 8ft jumps down onto sloping wet grass holding onto tufts of  grass to arrest the fall. We made it and worked our way gently down to the stile that would take us onto a footpath across a footbridge and into Nant Peris.

I am lucky enough to have access to a cottage that is on the Welsh 3000s route and so we stopped in at Pant-y-Fron to swap over kit. We were both soaked from rain and sweat but the sun was coming out so I took the opportunity to change into shorts and pack away my base layer. We stocked up on water, food and copious amounts of Coke then it was off to re-gain all the height we had just lost..

Pant-y-Fron: Base Camp

Glyderau

Elidir Fawr

I have climbed Elidir Fawr many times, almost always in really crappy weather so my memories of this climb were rather negative but be both loved it. The poles were doing their stuff, really taking the pressure off the legs, the temperature was about right and behind us we had stunning views of Snowdon. It was really strange to think that we'd been standing up there just an hour ago.

Looking back to Snowdon on the climb
up Elidir Fawr

The time seemed to pass very quickly and we passed a few groups of walkers as we chatted our way up the hill. Just before we reached the summit we broke into the sunshine and as we crested the top we were met with beautiful views north to Anglesey.

Andy taking in the views from peak #3: Elidir Fawr

Y Garn

We loitered for a good few minutes on the summit, taking in the views, snapping a few photos, putting on base layers (it was sunny but the gentle breeze was bitterly cold) and generally just enjoying being there. We could see two runners on the edge of the bowl ahead and wondered if it was the two lads we'd met on Crib Goch. Suppose we'd better get moving too!

Good running on the descent from Elidir Fawr
with Snowdon in the background

The run around the bowl was great. Lovely undulating single track and we made the most of it while it lasted.

The Alps? Nope, we're still in Wales.
The descent gully from Tryfan can clearly be seen
as a grey diagonal line directly to the left of the summit

The summit of Y Garn

We got the poles out for the climb up Y Garn and once again they worked superbly on this good quality trail. The views were absolutely stunning. If we looked right we could see Snowdon and were we had been so far. If we looked left we could see the Carnedds and look at where we'd be heading in a few hours time.

Y Garn: peak #5, with Tryfan and Glyder Fach behind

Glyder Fawr

I really enjoyed the descent from Y Garn. It was rocky but a good angle to run quite hard without trashing the quads. We passed quite a few groups on the descent and loads of people sunning themselves by the lake then it was out with the poles again to climb Glyder Fach.

So far we had been really enjoying the climbs, getting into a great rhythm with the poles, but this climb was up rocky gullies which stopped you getting into any sort of regular pace. The poles were still beneficial but it was harder work that the previous climbs.

We reached the rocky summit and interrupted a bloke's dinner to ask him to take a photo of us. To me reaching Glyder Fawr felt like a significant point in the day, though I'm not sure why.

On Glyder Fawr: Peak #6

Glyder Fach

Initially the run across the summit plateau looked completely un-runnable but once we got going we managed to jog across the boulders. We got a shout from a walker "You guys are completely MAD" which made me laugh.

The rocky summit plateau of Glyder Fawr with Glyder Fach ahead.
Flat ground but how fast can you run on this?

Approaching Glyder Fach. The rocky peak which looks like the
summit is Castell y Gwynt, which is not on the route.
Glyder Fach is the lump to the left. 

The final scramble to the summit

Peak #7: Glyder Fach

Tryfan

With the Glyders in the bag we turned towards Tryfan. To get there we ran over towards the groups of people at the top of Bristly Ridge then took the gully immediately to it's right. This slopes gradually down then steepens dramatically.

The top of the descent gully

In the gully

This would be a great gully to run if you had it to yourself but we had several groups of walkers beneath us, gingerly edging their way down. With every foot fall there was risk of dislodging large rocks down onto those below so great care was needed. It was great to get through them and relax into some fun, steep running. Once at the bottom we ran across to the pleasant  scramble up the South face of Tryfan.

The South face of Tryfan

Peak #8: Tryfan. Standing room only!

As we approached the summit we were surprised to meet the two lads we'd passed on Crib Goch. They were choosing to reverse the longer route back to Bwlch Tryfan rather than the steeper West Gully because their legs were tiring. It was nice to see them again and once again we wished each other good luck and went our way.

Looking to Llyn Ogwyn from the top of the West Gully

From the top of the West Gully we could see the tiny toy cars down by Llyn Ogwyn. This was exciting for us because support was waiting in the form of fellow Delamere Spartan John Kleiser who would be waiting with supplies and joining us for the final section over the Carnedds.

We worked slowly down the gully (marvelling at how the record holder reached Llyn Ogwyn from the summit of Tryfan in 8mins!) before running the thigh-burning descent on the steps from hell. Once we were low enough we traversed the bogs under the crags to join the main path to the YHA. 

Ogwyn

We quickly realised that finding John was going to be a problem. Cars were parked as far as the eye could see in either direction and John had no phone reception. We ran around for ten minutes before we found him then we sat down for 15 mins while we enjoyed the luxury or fresh sandwiches, crisps and refills of water and Coke. 

Carneddau

Pen yr Ole Wen

And so two become three! The climb from the YHA up Pen yr Ole Wen is an honest climb! Steep, relentless, but it will get you up to the top with no messing about. In hindsight we decided it would be quicker to stay away from the YHA, passing Llyn Ogwyn on the south. Still, we enjoyed the climb even when I managed to take us off the main route for several hundred meters. 

John Kleiser enjoying the climb out of the valley.

Looking back to Tryfan

When we reached the top we found our two mates summitting from the other side. It was great to hear that they were enjoying the route just as much as we were. At this point all the major climbs are behind you and the finish starts to feel close.

Our fellow runners

Me, John and Andy on Pen yr Ole Wen: peak #9

Carnedd Dafydd

From Pen yr Ole Wen we enjoyed beautiful running around the bowl, with stunning views out to Anglesey and the Menai Straights. 

Climbing to Carnedd Dafydd

As we reached the summit of Carnedd Dafydd we were met with views of the rest of the route. The end was tantalisingly close but we were still enjoying it so much that we didn't want it to end and we were still feeling pretty fresh!

Looking across to Carnedd Llewelyn (in shaddow on the right),
the traverse out to Yr Elen on the left and in-between Foel Grach
(right) and Foel-fras in the sunshine

Yr Elen

Traversing around Carnedd Llewelyn. The ridge on the skyline
is the route we have just run from Carnedd Dafydd

The and of the traverse, ready to head over to Yr Elen
(the peak on the right)

On Yr Elen (peak #11) with the final two peaks behind

Very happy Spartans!

Carnedd Llewelyn

It's a great feeling to turn back towards Carnedd Llewelyn knowing that once you get there you are on undulating ground right to the finish. We passed the other team then broke out the poles for the last time as we started the last significant climb of the day.

Carnedd Llewelyn: peak #12

Foel Grach

I managed to not take any photos on this section but it was quite unremarkable. Rocky ground slowed the pace and boggy streams made the feet wet.

Garnedd Uchaf

Almost over! The final two peaks: Garnedd Uchaf is the small pile of stones on the left, Foel-fras is the hill on the right

On Garnedd Uchaf: peak #14

Foel-fras

The nice, gentle climb leads up to the final summit of Foel-fras is very runnable. It levels off into a rocky summit plateau and the trig point seems to take forever to come into view. And then there it is, peak number 15, around 10hrs 15mins after leaving Crib Goch.

I have heard that Foel-fras can seem like a poor place to finish the 15 peaks but today we could see over the ocean to the Isle of Man and it was breathtaking. We sat around, eating, chatting and taking in the views. For John, who is an experienced hill walker and peak bagger, this was the first time he had run in the mountains and it was was his biggest run so far this year so we could all bask in a sense of achievement. Just as we were starting to get cold and thinking about moving on our two buddies appeared on the crest of the hill. It was nice to be able to clap them in.

Descent

So the run is over, but we are still six miles from the car, which was parked in the higher car park above Abergwyngregyn. With tired quads we walked the steep descent to the lake then couds of midges forced us to get running again! We jogged around the lake shore to join the good track that took us right back to the car.

Andy and I had planned this as a training run but you can't call a day like this a training run; this is what it's all about! What a fantastic day. This is a superb day out for anyone with  experience of the mountains and a head for exposure. I already can't wait to go back and go for a good time. I think 8hrs 30mins would be very doable.

Thanks to Andy for the company. We didn't get fed up with each other after 13hrs of running but surely we must run out of things to talk about soon?? Huge thanks to John not only for the good company and route knowledge but also for providing the amazing support stop.

ULTD Recce - Buttermere to Dalemain

This was an official recce day running 33 miles from Buttermere to Dalemain. I had never set foot on this section and looking at the map I had always though it looked pretty drab but after watching John Kynaston's excellent videos (http://www.johnkynaston.com/p/lakeland-100-videos.html) several times I couldn't wait to get out there.

Stage 5: Buttermere to Braithwaite

This is a really nice section, getting up into some beautiful scenery (though it will be dark on the race). A highlight will be seeing Skiddaw and realising that you've travelled the whole of the Lake District from South to North.

The start of the trail after leaving CP4

After leaving the checkpoint you're climbing straight away so get the sticks out. The path is initially by a pretty stream before crossing a high stile onto the fellside. Follow the path, ignoring the left forks until the the wall breaks away down hill, then start watching for the path on the left. There is a sheep fold away to the right in the bottom of the valley but the wall cutting away from the path is the key marker.

The left fork takes you up hill before levelling and contouring the hill again.

Follow the path around three becks...

Addacombe Beck

..... and then watch out for the left fork. This doesn't look like a path, more a scree gully but there is a small cairn at the bottom (camera was playing up and so couldn't take a photo). The scree does turn into a good path and goes steeply up hill to cross over Sail Pass.

Over Sail Pass with Outerside ahead

Follow the good path around to the right of Outerside then continue towards Barrow.

The good path slowley descending towards the small summit of Barrow

As you get close to Barrow follow the path over the col to the left then descend on a good path to Braithwaite.

The path dropping down to Braithwaite

Stage 6: Braithwaite to Blencathra Centre

Initially this section is pretty dull but at least you can cover lots of ground quickly. The last half makes up for it in terms of really good quality trail running though.

From Braithwaite you run along the main road for a while, crossing the junction at Portinscale then the bigger junction into Keswick. After the Keswick junction keep your eyes open for the footpath on the right leading to the disused train line.

Follow the train line until you hit the road then turn right towards Keswick. Turn into the residential road on the left, next to the car garage then, after a few hundred meters, turn left into Spooney Greeg Lane (get poles out here).

Steep climb at the bottom of Spooney Green Lane

There is quite a long slog up hill here but once you get out of the trees the views south to the Lakes are stunning. Just stay on the main path, ignoring all turnings.

Stay on the main path to the right

On reaching the car park go to the right end, over the stile then turn left and follow the good path next to the wall.

Stunning running up the Glenderaterra valley to the sheep fold at the top then back down south to the Blancathra Centre (turn right at the end of the car park)

Andrew Evans running south on down the valley
towards Blencathra Centre

Stage 7: Blencathra Centre to Dockray

This section was pretty dull but it is mostly good underfoot so a good chance to cover some miles. It starts with some really nice trails by waterfalls then onto the railway line again, running next to the River Greta. This is good running, following the railway line until the big flyover, where you dink off onto the road before quickly re-joining the railway. There is a scrubby section where it would be easy convince yourself that you are off route, on a narrow path with decaying machinery and equipment by the path but you're on the right track!

Once you leave the path the section to climb up to the Old Coach Road is pretty bleak and soggy underfoot. Head for the corner of the woods then turn right and head for the gate/stile in the fence before climbing uphill. Propably worth having the poles out from the point you leave the railway line.

The bleak climb to the Old Coach Road

The Old Coach Road is not too bad. Hopefully I'll be able to cover ground here reasonably quickly. It does go on a bit though! Eventually you come in to CP7 in the car park at Dockray.

Stage 8: Docray - Dalemain

This is a great stage, with superb single track trail running around Gowbarrow Fell, the first glimps of Ullswater then fast lanes to pull you in to Dalemain.

On leaving the CP there is a small section of tarmac, running on a small, pretty lane down to the hamlet of Docray. Onto footpaths through the farms then onto open fell. The trail is good and pretty obvious.

Through the stile into the woods towards Aire Force

There is some lovely running descending down by Aire Force then the path works around the front of Gawbarrow Fell. Watch out for the left turn up hill.

The left turn to start the climb around Gowbarrow

Subperb views as across the central Lakes as Ullswater unfolds below.

The path is obvious, just continue until you reach the small ruined building and head over the stile into the forest at Swinburn's Park. More great running here.

Swinburn's Park

On leaving the woods I had some fun finding the route as it went through the cow fields. The path is not visible on the ground and I'm very glad to have reccied it. Once you leave the fields it's small lanes pretty much all the way to Dacre.

Left turn in Bennethead

When you reach Dacre turn left then look for the footpath on the right to take you onto the L50 route by Dacre castle and on to Dalemain.

Dacre Castle

As well as being able to learn the route a huge part of these weekends is that you get to meet fellow runners. I spent most of the day with Andrew Evans (we discovered that we had finished the L50 last year within two minutes of each other and had run parts of the last few miles together in the dark) and Peter, who I've run with on several recces now. I also had a good chat with Nick Smith and Heidi Lazeby. Hopefully there'll be equally good company on race day to help the miles go by.

I did have pain on the inside of my left knee that was a bit worrying. It started around 25 miles and peaked at 30, when it was affecting my running, but it was easing as I arrived at the finish. Hopefully it's just a lack of conditioning and two months of solid running will sort it our before race day.

Yorkshire 3 Peaks Race

I didn't enjoy the last half of this race at all. I got the stuffing knocked out of me and at times was thinking about packing in running all together! But as I write this on the day after the race I am already looking back on the race as a hugely positive experience.

Last year I walked the Three Peaks with my father-in-law and enjoyed it so much that I went back a couple of months later with Dave to run it. We cruised around at a steady pace in 5:10 and I decided that I had to enter the race in 2012 and go for 4:30. After damaging my Achilles in October I spent the winter wondering if I’d be fit enough by race day and even as recently as a month ago, when I was only managing a small volume of low intensity running, I could imagine getting around the race but not running at any sort of pace. But, then came a perfect month of running. It started with the Lakeland 100 Pooley Bridge – Ambleside recce and was followed by some good quality sessions. I felt like I was flying and couldn’t wait to get to the start line of the Y3P.

On race morning the weather could have been worse…but it could have been better. Strong winds in the valley and clag on the tops promised a cold day. All the talk amongst the runners was of how many layers to start in. There were three other Spartans in this race, Nick, Jason and Andy, and we settled for long sleeved tops under t-shirt, hat, gloves and I even had a buff around my neck. Kit check was done in the marquee to keep runners warm then we were herded out to the start line and the guns sounded right away.

The run through Horton-in-Ribblesdale was stunning. There must have been at least 600 runners ahead of us running down the narrow main street. What an amazing view! We turned off and started the climb which began on the wide, stony Pennine Way before turning off onto smaller paths to the summit of Pen-y-ghent (where the gale force wind was peppering us with halestones). Climbing is not my strong point and I was worried about pushing too hard so I drifted back and let the Spartans go ahead.

With tight calves the summit was a welcome sight (45mins). Brief queue for the dibbers then a run down hill. At least that was the idea but the head on gale force wind prevented any forward motion faster than walking pace. It was so strong that it was very difficult to breath. After a while the path turned and we were able to get running again. I was really stupid here and blasted the descent. It was tremendous fun but by the time I reached the bottom my legs were feeling very heavy. On the descent I caught up with Jason and Andy and learned that Nick was out of the race! He had gone over on his ankle quite badly at the summit and was waiting to be helped down. I was really disappointed for him. This had been his main A race of the year and he’d been focusing on it for the past six months.

Me, Jason and Andy with Pen-y-ghent in the background

The three remaining Spartans ran together for a while up the valley then Jason dropped back. Andy and I had a great run up the valley, probably a bit too fast but enjoying every minute. We made it through the Ribblehead checkpoint in 1:54, with 15 minutes to spare before the cut off. Andy dropped off to pick up more water and I carried on. I must admit I felt pretty pleased to be the leading Spartan…but that was not to last for long! I was tired but ok passing the viaduct and cutting under the railway line. After wading through the infamous stream we started the ascent of Wernside and this is where it all fell apart.

Even on the gradual climb at the bottom of the valley I began to feel cramp in my quads. I slowed my pace to try and preserve my legs as much as possible but I knew it was too late. This was going to hurt! The final climb was incredibly steep; hands and knees in places. Andy and Jason passed me, both looking strong, but I topped out not far behind them. I dibbed, turned to start the fast run down hill but my legs just did not work. I’m usually very strong on descents but my legs felt like lead and runners were streaming past me. I decided to walk for a bit and eat a pack of salted crisps to see if that would help. It did and as the path got steeper I was able to start running stronger and passed a few people.

I stopped for water and jelly babies at the final CP at Hill Inn then began the slow, painful climb up Ingleborough. I was being continuously overtaken but looking back I didn’t actually loose as many places as it felt like. I was fighting cramp the whole way up (for this entire climb my whole left quad was locked) and I had nasty pains in my inguinal ligament, my left hip and the inside of my right knee.

As I reached the summit plateau I passed Andy on his way down. I made it to the summit in just over four hours then turned to begin the final descent to Horton. Again the gale force wind was blowing straight into our faces and running was pointless so it was a walk until we could scramble down onto the good paths. I wasn’t in a happy place: in addition to the aches, pains and cramp I was now starting to feel quite sick. I passed a few people but was passed by many more than I overtook . At this point all thoughts of times and position really didn’t matter. I just wanted to get to the end, stop running and burn my running shoes!

The finish was great. You come over a rise, about half a mile out and there in front of you is the finishing field with the marquee and you can hear the runners being announced in. I somehow managed to find a bit of a spurt at the end (probably due to all the clapping supporters) but it was such a relief for it to all be over. I finished in 4:57 and Jason and Andy were about 15 minutes ahead of me.

At the finish, looking considerably stronger than I felt!

I was very negative at the end of the race. I have a soft spot for the 3Peaks and it was really disappointing to have such a miserable time out there. However, within an hour or two I was already starting to feel more positive about the whole experience. This race showed me where my fitness really is and where I need to work in order to improve. I might be getting back to strength but my hill fitness is not there. So, I'm going to start getting as many hilly runs in as I can. I am also going to swap my flat, six mile lunchtime runs on a Monday and Friday for gym sessions, working on the stepper and weights to try and get some strength into these legs.

Well, the race was a bit of a shocker but in terms of my larger goal, the Lakeland 100, it probably came at just the right time to show me how I need to alter my training. It could well turn out to be the best outcome I could have wished for.

Postscript

I stayed in Horton-in-Ribblesdale for a week after the race. My legs were shot for days and I wasn't able to go for a run until the Wednesday. Mich dropped me off at Hill Inn and I ran over Ingleborough and back to Horton. It was a wonderful run. I had the hill to myself and felt strong. The following morning I ran over Pen-y-ghent and had another superb run. It was great to get back out there and make friends with these hills again. It won't be long before I'm heading back to Yorkshire to run this route again.